Our journey from Berchtesgaden to Innsbruck included a day stop in Salzburg. We began at Mirabell Palace and its magnificent gardens, still bright with flowers in late October. Crossing the Salzach River into the Old Town, we walked through narrow shopping streets lined with beautiful wrought-iron guild signs, stopping at the historic Café Tomaselli and passing Mozart’s birthplace. Along the way, we discovered charming specialty shops, including tiny cheese and confectionery shops, and the remarkable Stiftsbäckerei St. Peter, a bakery dating back to the 12th century that still uses a historic waterwheel. The lively market was incredible, overflowing with local produce, cheeses, flowers, and regional specialties. One unexpected discovery was an ancient well, which, thanks to Google Translate, we learned dated to 1137 and had been rediscovered in 1989. Salzburg was a perfect mix of history, architecture, food, and everyday Austrian life—and a perfect place to spend a day on our way to Innsbruck.
Pausing for kaffee and kuchen, and a little bit of imperial elegance at Café Tomaselli.
You can smell it before you even see it: Salzburg’s micro-shop for alpine cheese, run by the Soukup family since 1892.
The historic Stiftsbäckerei St. Peter in Salzburg, Austria, where a water wheel has helped bake wood-fired sourdough bread since the 12th century.
Winter greens, holiday wreaths, and a bounty of fresh produce—Salzburg’s markets are pure magic this time of year. 🌿❄️
We left Salzburg and boarded a train for a gorgeous ride through the Austrian Alps to Innsbruck. Arriving at the station, we decided to walk the mile or so to Hotel das Innsbruck, wheeling our luggage through the streets and stopping every few minutes to take pictures. Mountains seemed to pop up between buildings at every intersection, and no matter which direction we looked, there they were! We were immediately taken with the colorful buildings, their beautifully painted stucco storefronts, and the elaborate wrought-iron signs hanging above the shops. Even McDonald’s had to follow the local rules and display a traditional projecting sign. And then there were the bakeries, with windows full of pastries that looked too beautiful to eat.
We had three nights in Innsbruck, which gave us time to get to know the Old Town rather than just rush through its sights. We absolutely loved Hotel das Innsbruck, right along the Inn River and just steps from the historic center. The breakfast buffet was something else—not just an astonishing amount of food, but everything arranged so beautifully that it was almost a work of art. We also enjoyed the hotel’s spa facilities, including the textile-free sauna area on the top floor, a little introduction to Austrian customs!
On our first full day, we took the Nordkette lifts all the way to Hafelekar, 7,401 feet above sea level. What a contrast! We were standing among icy mountain peaks, looking straight down into a green valley with Innsbruck spread out below us. After taking in the views, we descended to Hungerburg and set off on foot toward the Alpenzoo. The trail was steep in places, and we made our way downhill through the changing colors of autumn, leaving the cold mountain air behind. After visiting the zoo, we continued walking past brightly painted houses and lovely gardens until we reached the river and made our way back to the hotel.
One of our favorite buildings was the Ottoburg, one of the oldest surviving buildings in Innsbruck, practically around the corner from our hotel. And we happened to be in town for Aufg’horcht in Innsbruck, a festival celebrating traditional Alpine folk music. What a treat! We came upon groups of singers, musicians, and dancers in traditional dress performing throughout the Old Town, including right in front of the famous Golden Roof (Goldenes Dachl). Later, we spotted some of the performers enjoying a well-earned beer at the Stiftskeller, one of the city’s traditional beer halls.
The food was wonderful, the streets were endlessly interesting, and we never tired of wandering around, ducking into little shops, admiring the architecture, and feeling as though we’d stepped back in time. But perhaps what made Innsbruck so special was that incredible setting. You could be standing in a centuries-old square, surrounded by colorful buildings and bustling cafés, and then look down a narrow street to see enormous mountains rising above the rooftops. We loved every minute of our three days here.
