Puerto Varas

This morning, we left the southernmost part of Patagonia and flew north—still deep in Patagonia’s wild landscapes. In two days, we’ll start our three-week drive along the Carretera Austral, but for now, we’ve gone just beyond Puerto Montt into the Lake District. Here, lush forests line a pristine blue lake, with volcanoes rising in the distance. Sitting on the patio of B&B QUETRIHUE we’re grateful for the the beauty around us.

After a wonderful breakfast with our welcoming hosts—a retired couple, he a former packaging professional, she a former biology teacher—we set off in the rain to explore Osorno Volcano. The drive wound through lush, almost tropical landscapes, reminding Pete of Jurassic Park, even though the region only sees warm weather in summer. We hiked to nearby waterfalls, one surrounded by vibrant greenery, and the other carved into lava rock, before returning for our final night by the lake. The next morning, we said goodbye to Pilar, Christian, their hummingbirds, and their little slice of paradise. Pilar had spent the previous day planning our entire Carretera Austral drive, so off we went to the next adventure.